Seasons of Wine & Vine
Winter—the beginning of the annual cycle—dormancy
The Vineyard. The yearly cycle begins in the depth of winter; it is the depth of dormancy, the plant's energy has moved to the roots to wait for spring. One of our favorite tasks is the winter pruning of vines, where we remove 95% of the previous year's growth. Here the trained eye of the winegrower selects the wood that will not only give the fruit for the coming year, but the shape of the vine for years to come. It is a welcome break to cabin fever to be out in the crisp winter days, cutting and shaping each vine, one at a time. There is a slow meditative pace to winter; all preparations are complete by April for the coming flush of growth.
The Winery. In winter wine resembles the vines from which it came: it too is dormant, quietly clarifying, pulling to the bottom the yeast and sediment from the fall winemaking. Slow crystallization of the excess acidity occurs in the chill of winter, a process that softens wine for its future consumption. We move our two year old red wines from the oak barrels and put our new red wines in barrels for the coming two years of sleep that it takes to mellow these wines. On rainy or stormy days we withdraw to the cellar for blending our reds, tasting the young whites and making the preparations for bottling.
Spring—the flush of the Earth renewed
The Vineyard. With the flush of spring's growth the farmer finds oneself moving at the same fast rate, for one must mow the winter cover crop and till it in for its fertility, or we will be watching for diseases, or training the young shoots, so as to maximize air and sun to each shoot or leaf. We might be cultivating for weeds, or managing the vines for mildew. In this season in particular, the skill of a husbandman is needed, for one must take care to always be building soil tilth, plant health and ecosystem symbiosis. Timing and knowledge are paramount in the forming of fine wines during this rush of growth and in the maintaining of organic sustainable vineyards.
The Winery. Early spring is an active time in the wine cellar. Young white wine receives its first racking; the wine that settled clear in its winter sleep is removed from the yeast and settlings. Depending on the variety, the wine may be returned to barrel for more aging or it might be prepared for early bottling. Wines in barrel will go through their secondary or spring fermentation, where the malic acid of the grape is softened to the milder lactic acid. This malo-lactic fermentation creates the softness of a dry wine and also the flavors of butter that are often associated with Chardonnay. The winery community comes to taste blends and help bottle. Long bottling days are made easier by the sense of camaraderie: at a small winery people work together sharing the labor as they share stories, laughs or bits of their lives.
Summer—heat of the season and dry, dry, dry, makes the grapes for wine
The Vineyard. Early summer is still a fast pace as vines and grower work to the climax of flowering. Here weather will ultimately determine the size of harvest, but the labor of human hands can help nudge this event in the right direction. After flowering, the plant’s leaves are removed, so as to expose developing clusters to the sun. Shoots are tipped to direct growth to the grape berry, and these same shoots are trained vertically so to maximize airflow through them. The vineyard is kept tilled to prevent water loss and to warm the microclimate of the vineyard. Weather is watched: not enough rain and we may need to irrigate. One is always on the patrol for disease eruption, which in an organic vineyard must be prevented; eradication is not easy. Late summer finally brings a spell of rest and wait, a little time to go sailing or hiking.
The Winery. A part of the sustainability of a vineyard/winery operation is that it must be economically viable: our largest flow of visitors and sales is the summer time. We move bottled wine to restaurants, markets and our tasting room. Wines that are popular often sell out during this period. We also hold special events, a chance for customers to come and try limited releases or try the paring of food with our wine. Winemaking in the summer is low demand: we rack (remove) our reds from their sediment and return them to barrel for more aging. Slowly the reds lose some of their tannins, becoming smoother and mellow. Barrels are topped off to keep oxygen from the wine, thus assuring that the flavors of the grape and the fermentation are preserved.
Fall—the CRUSH is upon us—wine is made
The Vineyard. Now preparations are made for harvest: clean the equipment, get out the bird nets, and telephone or email the volunteers for the picking party. We are also thinking ahead to the winter and the coming year; fall is when any fertilization is applied and our winter cover crop is sown, which will protect our soils through the winter rains. The sampling of fruit begins, as the winemaker looks to see when maximum flavor corresponds with grape sugars and acids. Weather is watched. Birds and raccoons are frightened away. Then harvest begins: picking 6 to 10 tons in a day, in a celebration involving people from our community. Culmination of the year's labors is held in this sweet, succulent fruit, which will birth the new wine, preserving the previous summer for enjoyment in days to come.
The Winery. This is the CRUSH, long days of hard work to turn the fragile fruit to the more durable wine: 90% of the winemaking is done in a six-week period! Grapes are brought to the winery where they are crushed to make the wine must. This must is a slurry of juice, skins, pulp and seeds. Red wine is made by fermenting the must to extract the color from the skins of the grapes. Red wine must is punched down three times a day, to mix the floating cap of skins back into the wine. It will be pressed when all the sugar has fermented away. White wine is made by pressing the must to extract the juice, which is used for winemaking. Siegerrebe juice goes to a tank to ferment. Madeleine Angevine and Chardonnay juice go into oak barrels to ferment. The cloudy new wine will be racked from its sediment one or two times in the coming winter, so as to achieve the brilliant clarity we know wine to possess. Finally, in November, we are done with the season's work. The holidays give us a chance to rest, taste our new wine, relax with friends, family and community, as we look back on a year of fruitful labor.
Next: Salmon Safe Certification
The deep sleep of Winter
Young grapes on the vine
Summer's heat ripens the fruit
